Plant and Garden
Information, Tips & Ideas

Deer Resistant Plants

Astilbe
Barberry
Birch
Birds Nest Spruce (All spruces)
Boxwood
Butterfly Bush
Daffodils
Dwarf Alberta Spruce
Pachasandra
Potentilla
Pieris Japonica
Rose of Sharon
Spirea
Viburnum

Plants To Avoid In Deer Country

Arborvitae
Azalea
Burning Bush
Dogwood
Euonymus Variegated
Flowering Crabapple
Frasir Fir
Hemlock
Holly
Hosta
Mountain Laurel
Purple Sandcherry
Rhododendron
Roses
Tulips
Yew
*NOTE: Please remember, no plant is “completely” deer-proof,
especially during a severe winter.

Printable Tips for Deer Resistant Plants

 

Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus Tricuspidata)

– This is a deciduous ivy that looses its leaves in the winter. They have large lobed leaves that turn bright red in the fall just before dropping. It is a very vigorous grower that gets into cracks, siding, and even windows. It sometimes is seen on large brick buildings. We do not stock this vine, but can order it for you in June. It is hardy.

Clematis
– These vines make a wonderful flowering vine. They have large purple, white, red, pink, or multiple colored flowers. We have heard many people say that they have had trouble getting clematis to grow. They require well-drained deep soil with an adequate mixture of approximately 10% peat moss mixed in with the existing garden soil 18” deep before planting. The clematis requires at least 1⁄2 day or more of good full sun;however, the roots need to be kept cool. (Plant behind bushes or provide shade over the roots.) Buy only well established clematis plants that have been grown in the pot for at least one year for best results. Most varieties can be pruned in the early spring if necessary, or after flowering. Remove the dead wood.

Climbing Honeysuckle (Loricera)
– This is a vine that grows approximately 10-20’ tall and 10’ wide. It is a hardy vine that blooms all summer long! Plant in sun to part shade. Blossoms are tube shaped in colors of red, pink, and yellow.

Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala Petiolaris)
– This is a hardy vine that can grow to 20’ tall and 10-20’ wide over time. It can be used as a vine or a ground cover. Grows best in shade. It has rich dark green foliage on a sturdy vine with flat white hydrangea blooms in summer.

English Ivy (Hedra helix thorndale)
– The thorndale ivy we carry in the flats in the groundcover section will also climb. It is more controllable than the Boston ivy above, but it is a slow grower. It is an evergreen.

Silver Lace Vine (Polygonum aubertii)
– A vigorous vine that has white, sweet scented flowers in July-September. It is excellent for arbors, trellises, and fences. It is deciduous so it looses its leaves in the winter.

Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans)
– They come in yellow or orange-red. It is a very vigorous vine once established. Plant in sun or part shade. The hummingbirds really go for the orange-red variety. They bloom in late summer-early fall. It may take a year or two to bloom until established.
It is hardy.

Wisteria
– This can grow to 30’ or more and can be a tree or a vine. It isn’t the easiest vine to get to flower in many locations. It is a vigorous grower. It has fragrant flowers in late May or early June.  Plant in sun or part shade.

Virginia Creeper
– This is a variety of Boston ivy that flowers in late summer. We can order it in June.

Printable Tips for Vines

 

Dwarf Alberta Spruce are a super dwarf evergreen for our area. They can; however, be susceptible to occasional spider mite i njuries. The injury starts out in the summer as a lighter colored patch on the evergreen and it can turn brown if not sprayed with a spider mite spray. It is available in an aerosol can, a pump bottle, or a concentrate. We recommend spraying once a year in June as a preventative measure.

They like to be trimmed each year in July, so shape by taking off the small branches that stick out.

Printable Dwarf Albert Spruce Care

 

 

Our Favorite Flowering Shrubs, Trees, & Vines

Shrubs:
Azalea Exbury – Flowers in spring for about 2-weeks, plant in protected location out of the wind.
Azalea Evergreen – Flowers in spring for about 2-weeks, plant in a protected location, very few varieties are hardy.
*Butterfly Bush – Flowers in summer for a long period of time, gets real big, may die back in severe winters.
Dwarf Lilacs – Flowers in spring for about 2-weeks and is very fragrant.
Dwarf Rhododendron (PJM) – Flowers in early spring for about 2-weeks and is hardy.
Forsythia – Flowers in spring last for about 2-weeks. (We carry varieties that will flower here with yellow flowers.)
*Hydrangea (PG, Annabell, Tardiva, Unique) – Flowers up to 2-months in late summer.
Lilacs – Flowers in spring for about 2-weeks and are very fragrant.
Miniature Rhododendron – Flowers in spring for about 2-weeks and needs to be planted in a protected location.
Mountain Laurel – Flowers in late spring for about 2-weeks, plant in a protected location.
Pieris Japonica – Flowers in early spring for about 2-weeks. Flowers look like Lily-of-the-Valley flowers. Plant in protected location.
*Potentilla – Flowers in the summer for a long period.
Purple Leaf Sandcherry – Flowers in the spring for about 2-weeks.
*Rose of Sharon – Flowers in late summer, needs to be planted in town with a protected location.
*Roses – Protect from winter injury, plant in full sun.
*Spirea – Flowers in the summer. Shirobana flowers nearly all summer; very hardy.
Standard Rhododendron – Flowers in early spring for about 2-weeks. Does best in protected location.
Viburnum – Flowers in late spring for 2-3 weeks, need a protected area. Burkwoodi is fragrant.
Weigelia – Flowers in early summer for 2-3 weeks, needs a protected area.

Note:
Much color in the landscape can be obtained by using shrubs with “bright colored foliage” such as:
Blue Chip Juniper Gold Mound Spirea
Blue Dwarf Gold Spruce Golden Barberry (Dwarf)
Burning Bush (red in the fall) Icee Blue Juniper
Crimson Red Barberry (Dwarf & Rose Glow) Moffat Blue Juniper
Diablo Ninebark (maroon) Purple Leaf Sandcherry
Fat Albert Blue Spruce Saybrook Gold Juniper
Gold Mop Juniper Variegated Euonymus
(Gold & green, Green & white)
& many more colorful shrubs!
* This flowers for a long period of time.
Pleasant Valley Greenhouses & Nursery Flowering Plants

Flowering Vines:
*Clematis Vines – Flowers in the summer. Plant in sun, keep roots shaded and cool.
Climbing Hydrangea Petiolaris – Flowers in summer. Plant in shade.
*Climbing Roses – Flowers in the summer for over 1-2 months.
Silver Lace Vine – Has white flowers in late summer. Available in June.
*Trumpet Vines – Flowers in late summer for over 1-month. Plant in sun.
Wisteria Vines – Tricky to get to flower in our area.

Flowering Perennials:
See “Our Favorite Perennial” list.

Flowering Trees:
All fruit trees – Flowers in early spring for 7-10 days.
**Flowering Crabapple Trees – Flowers in early spring.
**Flowering Pear Trees – Flowers in early spring. (No fruit)
**Hydrangea – Flowers in the summer for a long period of time.
Lilac – Flowers in the spring and area fragrant. Iv ory Silk has white flowers in the
summer, but they aren’t fragrant.
Magnolia – Flowers in early spring. Large pink and white flowers can be hurt by spring
frosts. Plant in a protected location.
**Purple Leaf Sandcherry – Has white flowers for one week in the spring.
Redbud – Flowers in early spring. Cold hardy, but doesn’t take stress well.
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus) – Flowers for over one month in late summer. Needs a
protected location in town.
**Weeping Cherry – White variety flowers dependably in our area and is the best choice.
The pink variety does not flower most years and is not as hardy.

* This flowers for a long period of time.
**This is one of our favorites for this time of year.

Printable Tips for Flowering Shrubs, Trees & Vines

 

Groundcovers for sun and dry soil:

Sedum – Spreading varieties (there are many!)
Hens n’Chicks – There are many varieties.

Groundcovers for sun and good soil:
Aegopodium – (Bishops Weed) Green leaves with white edges. Spreads very well.
Ajuga – Low, tricolor, or maroon leaves with 4” purple flower spikes in summer. This is a low spreading “mat” that tolerates poorer soil, plant in sun to part shade. It is a perennial, so it dies back in the winter.
Cerastium – (Snow in the Summer) Silvery foliage and white flowers in May and June.
Cotoneaster Apiculato – A semi-evergreen spreading groundcover can be 2’ high and 3-6’ wide. This does best in good, well-drained soil. Attractive red berries in late summer to fall. Plant in sun to part shade.
Creeping Phlox – Low mat with bright flowers in early spring. It likes good soil.
Crown Vetch – Crown Vetch is a clover like groundcover that is planted by seed. It needs to be planted by early May in order to take. It can be seeded over existing grass or weeds. It is a good choice for steep, rocky banks where other groundcovers will not grow. It grows approximately 18” tall and has round pinkish flowers similar to clover.
English “Thorndale” Ivy – This medium leaf version of English Ivy is the hardiest and the best variety in our area. It spreads and climbs, evergreen variety. May die back in severe winters where exposed.
Euonymus ‘Coloratus’ – (Purple leaf wintercreeper). It is a low growing, vigorous evergreen groundcover with dark green, thick leaves that turn purplish in winter. not be a good choice out in the country where rabbits could damage it in the winter.
Plant in full sun to part shade.
Groundcover Roses – For a sunny area, these can’t be beat! Very disease resistant, spreads, and they flower from June-October.
Irish Moss – This low growing perennial can be used in-between rocks, where moisture is adequate. It can be used in rock gardens or in-between stone walkways.
Lamium – Variegated heart shaped leaves with white, pink, or purple flowers. It spreads very well.
Myrtle, Vinca, Periwinkle – Waxy green small leaves with light purple flowers. This spreads very well. This is a great groundcover for sun or shade, but is needs good, well-drained moist soil to do best.
Spreading Juniper – Blue chip, blue rug, and other spreading junipers can be used as groundcovers in sunny areas. Plant approximately 5’ apart after covering the ground with landscape fabric. After planting, mulch for best results.
Spreading Sedum – Sedum makes a good groundcover for a sunny, dry area. It comes in many low growing varieties with yellow, red, or pink flowers.  It is a perennial so it dies back in the winter.
Thyme – Thyme is a low growing perennial that likes a sunny, well-drained location. It is a good choice for growing in-between stones in a walkway. Mother of thyme is hardier than wolly thyme.

Groundcovers for the shade:
Astilbe – This is another perennial that can make a groundcover in a shady, cool, moist area. There are many varieties from low groundcovers that only get 4” tall to 2’ tall. The flowers are red, pink, white, lavender, and purple.
English “Thorndale” Ivy – This medium leaf version of English Ivy is the hardies and the best variety in our area. It spreads and climbs, evergreen variety. This can be plantedIt comes inin part-shade to full shade. May die back in severe winters where exposed.
Hardy Ferns – Many of the hardy perennial ferns make good groundcovers for shady, cool, moist areas.
Hosta – A very tough perennial that makes a great groundcover in shady and part shadeIt comes in areas. They need a moist, shady, well-drained location to de best. Hostas come in manycolors, shapes, and sizes. Some very interesting  and bright colors can liven up a shady area. Some varieties can grow 3’ around. The Francee variety will grow in sun if the soil is moist enough.
Lamium – Variegated heart shaped leaves with white, pink, or purple flowers. It spreads very well. Can tolerate “light” shade.
Lily-of-the-Valley – A low growing perennial with very fragrant, white bell shaped flowers in the spring. They need a moist, shady area.
Myrtle, Vinca, Periwinkle – This is a great groundcover for sun or shade, but it needs good, well-drained moist soil to do best.
Pachasandra – Pachasandra is a hardy evergreen groundcover that does well in moist, shady locations. It fills in well and is hardy.
Purple Leaf Wintercreeper – (Euonymus coloratus) A very hardy spreading groundcover with green leaves that turn purplish in winter. Can tolerate shady, dry areas.

Recommended spacing for ground covers:
Rooted cuttings should be spaced 6”-12” apart.
3” pots should be spaced 1’ apart.
1 gallon pots should be spaced 2’ apart.

Printable Tips for Groundcovers

 

Our Olean, New York weather permits us to start thinking about putting hanging baskets outside around Mothers’ Day, which is near May 10th every year. However, the chance for cold injury and frost kill on the hanging baskets is still great until approximately June 5th.

The best way to treat a hanging basket purchased in May is to hang it outside on the nice days, and bring it inside at night when it will be below 45°. Flowering hanging baskets will not survive in the house for a month; they need to go outside on the nice days. Be careful not to over water in cold, rainy periods.

WATER GUIDELINES
Hanging baskets are similar to people in their water requirements. On the hot, sunny, dry days they need a lot of water; in cool, wet weather they need less. We suggest most of the summer when the weather is hot & dry that most hanging baskets get watered once a day – until the water starts to come out the bottom of the basket. If it has been cold and rainy, check to see if the plant is dry before watering. If the soil is quite wet leave it until it starts to dry out.  Another good way to check a hanging basket for dryness is to lift it up. If it is heavy it’s probably wet, if it’s light it’s dry.

Watering first thing in the morning is best. If watering in the evening fits your schedule better, use care not to get water on the foliage. Be careful, only water the soil because foliage diseases can develop if the foliage stays wet all night.

FERTILIZATION GUIDELINES
In order to keep your hanging basket lush and growing all summer it will need fertilizer. Constant watering leeches out fertilizer in hanging baskets. Miracle Gro is an excellent fertilizer, but many people don’t have time to mix it up and apply it once or twice a week. An easier way is to use the small Miracle Gro fertilizer spikes that you push into the soil, since they last about three weeks to a month. Another good product is Osmocote, a time-release fertilizer. This can be applied to the soil and will last about a month in the summer.

Begonias and Impatiens are lighter feeders; they don’t need as much fertilizer. Geraniums and petunias are heavy feeders; they need more fertilizer to do well.

SUN or SHADE?
Hanging baskets exposed to full, hot sun all day need extra attention to watering and lots of fertilizer. Zonal geraniums and petunias are the best choices for full hot all-day sun. Portulaca is also good. Mixed hanging baskets with geraniums and petunias as the primary flowers should also do well. Moss baskets will do better if they get ½ day of shade or filtered sun. They tend to dry out quickly in full sun.

We have made up the following list of hanging baskets and grouped them from full sun to shade.

Full Sun

• Geraniums – The standard zonal geraniums can take full sun if you give them enough water and fertilizer on a daily basis.
• Petunias – Trailing petunia hanging baskets can take full sun if you give them enough water and fertilizer on a daily basis
• Portulaca – This does well in full hot sun and may not need water every day.
• Hibiscus – This does well in full hot sun and it needs water and lots of fertilizer on a daily basis.

 

Half Day of Full Sun

• Verbena – The new purple and pink Topian Verbenas do great in ½ day of full sun. However, be careful because they are not forgiving. If they get very dry even once and wilt they will not come back.
• Black Eyed Susan Vine – This does great in ½ day sun, but be careful with this one because they are not forgiving. If they dry out bad even once and wilt they will not come back.
• Lantana – This does great in ½ day sun, but be careful with this one because they are not forgiving. If they dry out bad even once and wilt they will not come back.
• New Guinea “Sunshine” Impatiens – These are called “Sunshine Impatiens,” although they do best in ½ day of full, hot sun. These are a great hanging basket because they are quite forgiving and if they wilt you can water them and they will come right back. Be careful not to over water these in cool, wet weather.
• Ivy Geranium – A beautiful hanging basket that does great in ½ day of full sun. It uses a lot of water and fertilizer in hot weather. Keep the soil moist; don’t let it dry out.
• Mini Cascade Ivy Geranium – These do great in ½ day of hot sun. Keep them watered and fertilized in hot weather. They are quite forgiving if you forget to water them. We recommend removing the old flower stalks very two weeks.
•  “Million Bells” Miniature Petunia – A super new hanging basket! It likes ½ day of full sun. It keeps growing and getting a fuller globe shape as the summer continues. They are very forgiving if you forget to water them once in a while. They don’t make a mess below and they like a lot of water and fertilizer.
• Scavolia, Fan Flower / “Blue Wonder” – A super new hanging basket! It likes ½ day of full sun. It keeps growing and getting a fuller globe shape as the summer continues. They are very forgiving if you forget to water them once in a while. They don’t make a mess below and they like a lot of water and fertilizer.
• Snowflake “Bacopa” – Tiny white flowers cover this newer variety. Does great in ½ day of sun. It is very popular. Be careful not to let them dry out, they are not super forgiving and do not come back well after they dry out bad enough. They don’t make a mess below.
• Chenille “Foxtail” – Red, fuzzy bottlebrush type flowers hang from this plant. It needs ½ day of sun to do well. Keep the soil moist; they do not tolerate drying out well.
• Lobelia – Small, blue flowers cover this trailing vine. They do well with ½ day of full sun. Be careful because this plant does not tolerate drying out.  If it dries out badly once, it will not come back.
• Argyranthemum – These super newer varieties of white or yellow daisy-type flowers are beautiful and flower all summer until fall. They are well suited to planting in the ground, also. The yellow variety gets quite tall for a hanging basket.
• Torenia – These medium-size blue flower plants do well with ½ day of full sun.

Less than Half Day of Full Sun

• Shade Impatiens – A classic hanging basket. This variety of impatiens does best if it gets ½ day of morning or late afternoon sun. Too much hot mid-day sun is not good. It is a beautiful plant that will last all summer with proper care. Fertilize it every two weeks with Miracle Gro. It does not do well in very dense shade.
• Reiger Begonia – One of the most beautiful and easiest to care for hanging baskets. It likes ½ day of sun or less. It is one of the few plants that flowers very well all summer long even in shade.
• Non-Stop Begonia – Large leaves and colorful flowers make this a popular choice. It likes morning sun or late afternoon sun. Too much hot mid-day sun is not god. Keep the leaves dry. In cool, damp late summer conditions it may need to be treated with a fungicide to prevent powdery mildew on leaves.
• Fuschia – A beautiful sight but they need special care! Fuschias like morning or late afternoon sun. Too much hot, direct mid-day sun will ruin a fushcia. They also need a good watering every day, all summer long. They are not very forgiving if they get too much sun or dries out a few too many times. They are just beautiful with the right care.
• Boston Fern – A beautiful hanging basket and easy to care for. It likes ½ day of sun or less. Give it lots of fertilizer and water and it will grow bigger and lusher as the summer goes on. If you bring it in the house for the winter, keep it in a bright window and continue to water it daily. The biggest mistake people make with Boston Ferns is not watering them enough. Misting is not really helpful.
• Double “Rosebud Impatiens” – This is a shade impatiens with “double” flowers that resemble small roses. It likes morning or late afternoon sun. Too much hot mid-day sun is not good. Be careful not to over fertilize, once every two weeks is enough.
• Streptocarpella – Small blue violet flowers and fuzzy leaves are the main characteristics of this plant. Likes ½ day of sun or less. They cannot tolerate cold temperatures; keep in the house in bright window until early June.

“Full Shade” Porches

• Non-Stop Begonia – Large leaves and colorful flowers make this a popular choice. They like morning sun or late afternoon sun. Too much hot mid-day sun is not god. Keep the leaves dry. In cool, damp late summer conditions they may need to be treated with a fungicide to prevent powdery mildew on leaves.
• Reiger Begonia – One of the most beautiful and easiest to care for hanging baskets. It likes ½ day of sun or less. It is one of the few plants that flower very well all summer long even in shade.

These houseplants make good porch hanging baskets:

• Ivy
• Spider Plants
• Pothos
• Philodendrons

Printable Hanging Basket Care Sheet

 

These hardy mums come in over 30 beautiful colors. They provide fall color after the annual flowers are done blooming for the year. They can withstand a frost without harm. We grow our own hardy mums; the best time to come and look is the first and second week of September. You can choose from thousands.

The first question people have about mums is will they come back up next year? Unfortunately, most mums planted in the fall in our area do not have enough time to become established before winter sets in and they do not live through the winter to come back up next year.

If you have a place in your garden where you would like to have mums growing and have them come back year after year; try planting them in the spring. That way they have all summer and early fall to become established before winter sets in. We offer hardy mums in 3” pots in the spring; you will find them near the perennials.

Hardy mums do best in a dry area in the garden that drains very well. Be sure to fertilize in the spring and again in the late summer with a granular fertilizer such as 5–10–5 or 10-10-10 etc.

Printable Tips for Garden Mums

 

      

Basil (Ocimum Basilicum) – Basil is an annual with leafy stems that give it a bushy appearance. The leaves are very fragrant. Basil has several species and varieties; thus having different color leaves and flowers. Basil grows between 1-2’ tall and flowers in July and August. Plant basil in full sun and in soil that is rich, moist, and well drained. It has to be trimmed regularly to keep it bushy.

• Culinary Uses: Basil has a rich and spicy, mildly peppery flavor with a trace of mint and clove. It is used in tomato sauce and pesto; it is superb with fish, poultry, white beans, pasta, rice, tomatoes, cheese, and eggs. It blends well with other herbs and adds snap to mild vegetables, soups, stews, and sauces.
• Harvesting and Storage: Cut sprigs when flower buds form and before they have opened. Basil can be harvested until the first frost. Basil is best stored in an oil, vinegar, or paste. It can also be dried and stored in tightly sealed containers.
• Garden ideas: Plant opal basil with marigolds for a striking contract. Grow sweet basil and opal basil together in a window box.
  Catnip (Neputa Cataria) – A course-leaved, gray -green perennial, catnip reveals its minthood by its stem. Soft, white fuzz covers the stem and leaves. It flowers in July through September. It likes sandy, well-drained soil and plant in sun to partial shade. Catnip is a feline aphrodisiac, although it doesn’t seem to give pleasure to every cat.
• Culinary uses: • Other uses: Makes a good salad ingredient in recipes that require exotic greens and sharp flavors.
  Use candied catnip leaves to serve at the end of a meal, as a digestive aid or an after-dinner mint.
• Harvesting and storing: dry them carefully. Gather the leaves and tops in late summer when the plant is full in bloom, and
  Sort out the tough stalks, though. Store away from moisture.

Caraway (Carum Carvi) – Caraway is usually termed a biennial. Some varieties display an annual habit, flowering and going to seed in their first year of growth. It can be planted in full sun to part shade and it likes light, dry soil.  It grows to about 2’ tall and flowers in the spring. It does not grow well near fennel, but it makes a good companion for peas.

• Culinary Uses: Every part of the plant is edible. The seeds are good in beef dishes, to season pork.  The leaves can be added to salads, soups, and stews. The root can be treated like a parsnip. Try caraway in eggs, cheese, vegetables, rye, barley, and oats.
• Harvesting and Storing: The seeds are ripe when they turn brown. Don’t waste time cutting the stalks before the seeds fall, then tie the stalks in bundles and hang them upside down in a warm but airy room.  Let the seeds drop onto a paper-lined try and let dry there for about two weeks. Store them in an airtight jar or container.

Chamomile, German (Matricaria recutita) – German chamomile is a tall, erect annual reaching 2-3 feet tall. has daisy like blossoms, feathery foliage, and a pretty apple fragrance and flavor. It flowers in late spring through late summer. It likes sandy, well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade. People with known sensitivities to ragweed, chrysanthemums, or other members of the Compositae family should be caution about drinking chamomile tea because the flowers contain pollen.

• Harvesting and Storing: German chamomile can be seeded in either the fall or spring. established, it will reseed itself if some flower heads are left unharvested. Once If you are using the herbs for teas, carefully harvest the flowers for drying when the petals begin to turn black on the disk.

Chives (Allium Schoemoprasum) – Chives are bulb plants, though the bulbs are almost too tiny to see. The hollow, green leaves and the flowering stem shoot up from the bulbs. They produce small, pale purple flowers.  They flower in June and grow to a height of about 18 inches. They like to be planted in moderately rich, well-drained soil and in full sun.

• Culinary uses: Chives taste like sweet, mild onions. Chives suit every flavor except sweet. Mince them up and cook with vegetables, meats, eggs, cheese, and creamy sauces. For texture and zip, add to soups, stews, and sautés. Don’t overcook the flowers, either. They are edible and look and taste good in salads or garnish dishes with them.

• Companion Planting: It is said they help keep Japanese beetles and black spot away from roses, scab on apples, and mildew on cucurbits, so it may help to plant chives next to these plants.

• Cultivation and Storing: For some reason, chives do not dry well to be suitable in cooking. It is easiest and faster to buy small plants in the spring, rather than to start them yourself. Plant about 8 inches apart. If you leave the plants to bloom, cut them back after they have flowered and they will send up leaves again in the spring.

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) – This is a bright green annual with slender, erect, finely grooved stems. It produces a tiny flower, white to pinkish, mauve, or reddish. It grows to 2-3 feet tall, flowers in spring or mid-to late summer, likes moderately rich, light, well-drained soil, and full sun to partial shade.

• Culinary Uses: You can use the leaves, fruits, or roots. Coriander leaves have a bold taste that combines a strong sage flavor with sharp citrus notes. Mince the leaves or use them whole as a garnish.  The roots taste like the leaves, but with an added nutty flavor and are used fresh or minced. The seeds do not have a sage like flavor, just a simple taste of citrus. Use them whole or ground.
• Cultivation and Storing: Sow the seeds directly into the garden after the fear of frost has passed.  Caraway, a biennial, is often interplanted with coriander because of its complimentary habit of growth. Harvest your coriander as soon as the leaves and flowers have become brown, but not before the seed has had a chance to scatter. Cut the whole plant and hang it up to dry; gathering the seed as it falls.  Make sure the seeds have thoroughly dried. When harvesting the leaves, cut only the small, immature leaves for the best flavor. Only the seeds will store well if kept in closed jars.

Oregano (Origanum spp.) – Oreganos are aromatic, herbaceous perennials with erect, hairy, square stems.  They flower July through September. Plant in full sun in well-drained, average soil.

• Culinary uses: It is best known for its use in tomato sauce, it has a hot, peppery flavor. It enhances cheese and egg combinations, including omelets, frittatas, quiches, and savory flans, and yeast bread, marinated vegetables, roasted bell peppers, mushrooms, roasted and stewed beef, pork, poultry, game, onions, black beans, potatoes, and shellfish. Marjoram in a greater amount can be a substitute.

• Pests and insects: Oregano is susceptible to root rot and fungal disease, and it can become infested with spider mites, aphids, or leaf miners.

• Harvesting and storing: To harvest the plant, snip springs off when the plant is only 6” high to make the plant bushier.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) – Rosemary is a perennial evergreen shrub whose ash -colored scaly bark and green needlelike leaves give it an overall grayish green appearance. It has pale blue flowers that are ½” long. Plant rosemary in a sunny location where you want it to stay; rosemary does not transplant well.

It is very challenging to grow in containers. Well-drained soil is essential. Do not ov er-water or underwater.  Mist the branches regularly.

• Culinary Uses: Its flavor harmonizes with those of poultry, fish, lamb, beef, veal, pork, and game, particularly in their roasted form. It enhances tomatoes, spinach, peas, mushrooms, squash, cheese, eggs, and lentils. Add to potato soup, eggplant soup, marinades, salad dressings, and cream sauces.  You can use both the flowers and leaves for garnishing and cooking. Crush or mince the spiky leaves before sprinkling over or rubbing into foods.

• Freeze whole springs of rosemary. Frozen rosemary is stronger than fresh.

• Harvesting and storing: It is recommended that you cut 4-inch pieces from the tips of the branches, being careful not to remove more than 20% of growth at a time.

• Garden ideas: Create the spokes of an herb wheel with rosemary. Plant it in a perennial border. Lovely hedgerows can be formed with rosemary bushes.

Printable Herb Guide

 

Basil (Ocimum Basilicum)

• Chef’s tips: Make basil vinegar using white vinegar and dark opal basil. Add a handful of basil when making beef stock, and to tomato or pizza sauce. To make pesto: combine 1 cup of fresh basil leaves, 3
  Tbsp of pine nuts or walnuts, 3 Tbsp of grated Parmesan cheese, and 2 or 3 cloves of garlic. Puree in a food processor, adding enough olive oil to make a smooth pasted. Use with pasta, rice, fish, vegetables, or in soup. Basil’s flavor intensifies during cooking.
• Aromatic: Add fresh leaves to potpourris and sachets. Lemon basil and opal basil are very fragrant and nice to add.

Catnip (Neputa Cataria)

• To make catnip tea: Simply pour boiling water over the dried herb and let it steep. Note, catnip’s flavor and aroma are very volatile; so protect the tea while it is steeping by placing a saucer on the cup.
• To make candied catnip leaves: Dip the leaves into a mixture of beaten egg white and lemon juice, sprinkle each side with sugar and let them dry for a day or so. Store th em in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator.

Caraway (Carum Carvi)

• Caraway seed can become bitter after cooking for a long time. the seeds 15 minutes before you take the pot off the stove.
• Add crushed seeds to waffle batter (1/4 tsp. for a recipe of four). When making soups or stews, try adding Sprinkle crushed seeds over popcorn. Chamomile, German (Matricaria recutita)
• To use chamomile in a facial because it is penetrating: pour boiling water over dried chamomile flowers in a large bowl, then let the steam waft over your face.
• It is used to bring golden highlights to brown hair; combined with neutral henna, it adds highlights to very dark hair.

Chives (Allium Schoemoprasum)

• Container gardening: Chives can be brought indoors to harvest all winter long. Dig up a clump in late summer and plant in a pot. Leave the container outside for several months to insure that the tops die back and the roots freeze. Then, bring it indoors and place on a sunny windowsill. Plants will sprout within a few weeks.
• Craft: They dry beautifully and make splendid additions to dried herb and flower arrangements.
• Ornamental uses: They work nicely into a variety of garden settings and are rarely bothered by pests.  Plant them as a border for a flower, herb, or veg etable garden.
• Chef tips: Combine chunks of cucumber, ripe tomatoes, and feta cheese with minced fresh chives. Add a splash of olive oil and serve with crusty bread.

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)

Aromatic: Once the fruit has fully ripened, the fragran ce changes to one like citrus. Mix them in potpourris to give them a lemony scent.

Chef’s Tips: Add ½ tsp of ground coriander seed to the batter (of one loaf) of gingerbread, banana bread, or carrot bread.

Other notes: Coriander attracts useful insects such and bees and other pollinators.

Oregano (Origanum spp.)

• Create an easy appetizer by drizzling a chunk of feta cheese with a bit of olive oil. Then sprinkle on minced fresh oregano and serve with crusty bread and ripe tomatoes.
• Toss thinly sliced red radishes, with minced scallions, minced fresh oregano, lemon juice, and olive oil and serve on a bed of shredded spinach.
• Baths: a muslin bag of oregano leaves bobbing in a steaming bath is recommended for relieving aches and stiff joints. (The hot water may play a large role in relieving aches and stiff joints.)

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

• To make sachets: Cut and collect your herbs on a sunny day, working in the early morning, just after the dew has dried. To capture them when their essential oils are at their peak, flowers should be gathered just after they have opened. Gently pull of the petals, discarding any that are brown and wilted. Place the petals, leaves, roots, and bark on a screen to dry. Dry them in a warm, dark, airy place, stirring often. Make sure they are perfectly dry or else mold will develop. Store them in an airtight container and keep them in a dark place until you are ready to use them. Crumble the dried leaves and flowers almost to a powder and grind the roots and bark with a mortar and pestle. Stuff them inside decorative fabric bags made of silk or something with a tight weave and tie the top tightly.
• Chef Tips: when baking, add rosemary to bread dough, using 1 Tbsp for each loaf. butter by combining 2 tsp of rosemary with ½ cup of softened unsalted butter. Create an herb Enhance the sweetness of fruit salads without sugar by adding rosemary.
• Aromatic: Rosemary oil adds a pleasant piny scent to soaps, creams, lotions, perfumes, and toilet water.  Use it to make sachets for your clothes drawers, between linens, and among the pillows of your sofa.

Printable Herb Guide Recipes

 

Clematis: These vines make a wonderful flowering vine. They have large purple, white, red, pink, or multiple colored flowers. We have heard many people say that they have had trouble getting clematis to grow. They require well-drained deep soil with an adequate mixture of approximately 10% peat moss mixed in with the existing garden soil 18” deep before planting.

The clematis requires at least ½ day or more of good full sun; however, the roots need to be kept cool. (Plant behind bushes or provide shade over the roots.) Buy only well established clematis plants that have been grown in the pot for at least one year for best results. Most varieties can be pruned in the early spring if necessary, or after flowering. Remove the dead wood.

*Asao-huge rosy-pink flowers with white tones in spring, 6-10’
*Belle of working-long blooming, silvery blue, dbl rosette shaped flowers in spring and fall. 6-9’
*Duchess of Albany- masses of long tubular, bright pink flowers with reddish-pink bars, bloom in summer, 6-10’
*Elsa Spath-large lavender blue flowers accented with red stamens, flowers most of the summer.6-8’.
*Ernest Markham-Brilliant red flowers in summer, 8-16’.
*General Sirkoski-large bluish-purple flowers with a red center in summer, 8-12’.
*Henryi-Profusion of large, pure white flowers, summer, 10-13’.
*Jackmanii-heavy blooming, deep purple flowers, summer, 10-13”.
*John Paul II-large, creamy white flowers, with soft pink stripes and deep red anthers, 8-10’.
*lanug. ‘Candida’-large white flowers throughout summer, 8-10’.
*Nelly Moser-Soft pink with a deeper pink bar down the middle of each sepal, summer, 6-13’.
*Niobe-stunning, very deep, ruby red flowers, summer, 6-8’.
*terniflora(paniculata)- small, sweetly scented creamy white blooms, late summer, 20-30’.
*The President-deep purple flowers with dark purple stamens, summer 8-12’.
*Ville de Lyon-large, rounded, carmine-red sepals fade to silvery pink edged in red and is accented by yellow stamens, 10-13’.
*Margot Kosher-rose-pink twisted flowers,8-10’.
*Polish Spirit-deep purple flowers, summer, 10-12’.

Printable Clematis Info Sheet

 

Outdoors:

1. Plant miniature roses where they will receive 5 or more hours of sunlight.
2. Space plants about one foot apart.
3. Use regular garden soil for planting.
4. Water well during the growing season.
5. Feed each plant one tablespoon of fertilizer in March, June, and July.
6. Cut plants back to about 5 inches in the spring.

 

Indoors:

1. Keep plants on a sunny windowsill.
2. Place pots in a tray filled with pebbles or sand. Keep the pebbles or sand wet all the time.
3. Water plants every two to three days keeping the soil in the pot moist but not soggy.
4. Feed with houseplant fertilizer once a month.
5. Give the plants an eight-week rest in the hydrator section of the refrigerator during June and July.
6. After the rest period, cut plants back to about 3 inches and resume normal care.

Note: Roses need more humidity than modern home heating systems provide. To solve this problem, the pots should be set on the tray of pebbles so that the water evaporating from the tray will raise the humidity around the plants. Yellowing leaves indicates that the air around the plant is too dry.

Printable Miniature Rose Care Sheet

 

We have chosen these for their hardiness and dependability in our area.

There are many, many other great perennials that do well in our area, also!

1. Daylilies (Lots of beautiful colors and varieties)
2. Black Eye Susan (Goldstrum is the best variety.)
3. Purple Cone Flower (Whites, also, but they can be harder to get started.)
4. Shasta Daisy (Tall or dwarf variety)
5. Coreopsis (Moonbeam, Zagrib, Rosea, Baby Sun, & others)
6. Bee Balm (Monarda) Red lasts the best and attracts hummingbirds.
7. Sedum Autumn Joy (and others, likes sunny areas & tolerates dry soil)
8. Hostas (Great for shade, colorful, interesting varieties)
9. Peonies
10. Russian Sage
11. Lupine (Self seeds and spreads)
12. Oriental Poppy (Needs a well drained location)
13. Daffodils (Bloom early in the spring, deer and squirrel won’t eat these)
14. Clematis Vine (Roots need Shade and kept cool, top needs sun)
15. Trumpet Vine (Very vigorous, hummingbirds love it)
16. Blue Pincushion Flower (Scabosia) Blooms almost all summer
17. Tall Phlox (Likes a well-drained, sunny location)
18. Groundcover, shrub, & miniature roses (Very hardy, choose varieties grown on their own root, not grafted)
19. German-Bearded Iris (Very fragrant)

Printable Favorites List

 

Perennials:
Aegopodium Variegated (Snow on Mountain)
Astilbe
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra)
Climbing Hydrangea Vine
English Thorndale Ivy
Hardy Ferns
Hosta-Many interesting bright colors
Ligularia (needs a very wet location)
Lily-Of-The-Valley
Myrtle
Pachasandra
Primrose
Purple Leaf Winter Creeper (Euonymus)

Trees:
Amelanchier
Dogwood
Magnolia
Red Bud

Shrubs:
Hemlock
Mountain Laurel
Pieris Japonica
Viburnum
Yew

Printable List of Plants that can withstand shade